Bagni San Filippo - Fosso Bianco and Balena Bianca

About Bagni San Filippo - Fosso Bianco and Balena Bianca

Bagni San Filippo is a tiny village on the slopes of Monte Amiata, in the Val d'Orcia, and it is home to one of the most spectacular free hot springs in Tuscany. Along the Fosso Bianco, a stream running through the woods, the thermal water has built up enormous deposits of pure white limestone over the centuries: petrified waterfalls, terraces and natural pools that look as if they were carved out of snow. The most famous formation is the Balena Bianca (White Whale), a large white wall shaped like the outline of a whale.

At the source the water comes out very hot, around 48 °C and sometimes even more, and cools as it flows down the stream. This means every pool has a different temperature: the closer you get to the springs, the hotter the water. This variety is exactly what makes the place so lovely, because you can choose your ideal pool simply by walking along the stream.

To get there, park in the village or along the provincial road and walk down following the signs: the path is short but can be muddy and slippery, especially after rain. There are no facilities, so bring everything you need and take all your rubbish away with you. The smell of sulphur reaches you as soon as you get to the car park and stays with you throughout the visit.

The white formations are a fragile heritage: walking on them carelessly, breaking off pieces or using soap damages them irreversibly. That is another reason to take things slowly here, looking for pools that have already formed without altering their edges. The best time is winter, when the contrast between cold air and hot water is strongest, but watch out for ice on the path.

The route isn't suitable for pushchairs or very small children, and the hottest pools should be avoided by anyone with low blood pressure or circulation problems. Nearby there is also a paid spa, separate from the free area. After your soak, the Val d'Orcia offers villages such as Castiglione d'Orcia, Radicofani and Bagno Vignoni just a few kilometres away.