Free hot springs in Tuscany: the complete guide

No Italian region has as many free hot springs as Tuscany. The reason is geological: around Monte Amiata, in the Maremma and in the Colline Metallifere the ground is still hot, and rainwater that seeps deep underground rises again full of heat and minerals. At the surface, where nature and history have channelled it, it forms pools and waterfalls where you can bathe without buying a ticket.

Tuscany's free hot springs fall into three families. There are the great natural waterfalls, like Saturnia, famous all over the world and therefore often crowded. There are the pools in the woods, like Bagni San Filippo and Petriolo, where the water runs along streams and forms pools of different temperatures. And there are the historic pools, like those of San Casciano dei Bagni or Bagno Vignoni, built centuries ago and still open to everyone today.

Which one should you choose?

• For a first visit: the Cascate del Mulino at Saturnia, with water at a constant 37.5 °C or so, open day and night. Go at dawn or out of season.
• For a very hot soak in nature: Bagni San Filippo and Petriolo, where the water near the springs is over 40 °C.
• For families: San Casciano dei Bagni, with its stone Bagno Grande, and the warm pool below Bagno Vignoni.
• For summer: the Caldane di Gracciano and the Bozzetti at Equi Terme, with water between 20 and 27 °C, refreshing rather than hot.
• For explorers: Sasso Pisano and San Michele alle Formiche, in the Colline Metallifere, small and little known (check locally before you go).

The best time to go

Tuscany's free hot springs are at their best from October to April: the cool air makes the hot water a pleasure, the steam creates a unique atmosphere and the crowds thin out. In summer the most famous spots get very crowded, especially at weekends: if you go then, aim for the early morning or late evening.

A three-day itinerary

Day 1: Saturnia at dawn, then a visit to Pitigliano and Sorano. Day 2: the Val d'Orcia, with a soak at Bagni San Filippo and a stroll around Bagno Vignoni at sunset. Day 3: San Casciano dei Bagni in the morning before heading home, or a detour to Petriolo, between Siena and Grosseto.

Rules to respect

Tuscany's free hot springs are fragile natural places: limestone formations break easily and can take decades to grow back. Don't use soap, don't move stones to enlarge the pools and always take your rubbish home. In many places tourist pressure is pushing local councils to consider restrictions: the best way to keep them free is to visit them with respect.

Read also: free hot springs open at night and safety tips.