Le Caldane di Gracciano

About Le Caldane di Gracciano

The Caldane di Gracciano are a place unlike all the other free hot springs on this list. The name suggests boiling water ("caldane" means hot pools), but here the spring is lukewarm, around 20 °C. Rather than a hot winter soak, this is a natural pool for cooling off in summer, in a small green corner just outside Colle di Val d'Elsa, in the province of Siena.

The water feeds a few pools bordered by low walls and the remains of ancient structures, in the shade of the trees. The site has been used since Etruscan and Roman times and still has a simple, slightly wild charm. It lies close to the route of the Via Francigena, so it's not unusual to meet pilgrims and walkers stopping for a break.

Precisely because the temperature is mild, the Caldane also suit families with children, with the usual care needed in an unsupervised natural place. In summer they are very popular with locals, so it's best to arrive early or in the late afternoon, when the light over the Sienese countryside is at its most beautiful.

Don't expect any facilities: there are no changing rooms, bars or showers. The beauty of the place lies in its simplicity. Bring a towel, something to eat and a bag to take your rubbish away. The best period runs from late spring to early autumn; in winter, water at around 20 °C is hardly inviting.

The Caldane combine very well with a visit to Colle di Val d'Elsa, the city of crystal with a lovely hilltop old town, and to Monteriggioni, the walled village you can see from the Francigena. San Gimignano and Siena are also a short drive away.

One last practical tip: since this is a place much loved by local people, the rule of good neighbourliness matters more than ever here. No loud music, no camping out and no glass near the pools. If you're walking the Via Francigena, it makes a restorative break halfway through the stage, cooling your tired feet before setting off again towards Siena or Monteriggioni.